One of the finest croissants I was ever served was aboard the transatlantic passenger liner the SS France. On a round-trip voyage of the ship, I spent several memorable days with her boulangers and pâtissiers working and observing. Unlike today's one-class cruise ships, the France carried first-class and second-class passengers. In the ship's bakery, the croissants for the first-class dining room were made in the traditional crescent shape, while the same croissants destined for the other dining room were not given the quarter-moon shape but left straight. "When we are making hundreds, it just takes less time to shape and we can get more of them on a baking sheet," explained M. Gousse, the pâtissier. This is the SS France recipe for its feather-light (1-ounce) croissant.